SNOT Building Techniques: Sideways Bricks From Beginner to Advanced

The short version: SNOT means turning the studs sideways. Build your base with 87087 and 11211, close the surface with tiles, and remember the rule of thumb — 30% structure, 70% reinforcement.

SNOT stands for "Studs Not On Top." A normal build keeps every stud facing up and stacks layer on layer. Sideways building uses specialist parts to point studs at the sides, or even downward, so a wall can show horizontal texture, recessed panels and a clean smooth face. The brick texture on a wall, the lettering on a shop sign and the curved shell of many great MOCs all depend on this one trick. If there is a single dividing line between beginner and intermediate builder, this is it.

What SNOT sideways building actually is

The essence of sideways building is changing the direction in which the studs take load. A conventional build only has a top and bottom connection face. Sideways building lets left, right, front and back all interlock too, turning a one-dimensional stack into a three-dimensional structure. SNOT structures usually fall into two camps. One uses stud-reversed bricks to rotate the stud direction 90 degrees directly. The other uses a stud-to-hole or pin-to-hole fit to create a sideways connection between bricks. Once that distinction is clear, choosing parts stops being overwhelming. The core approach is always the same: decide which face will be visible and which face carries the load, then pick the connection method.

Choosing stud-reversed and SNOT bricks

Good tools make good work. Sideways building relies on three families of parts:

• Stud-reversed bricks: the 1x1 headlight brick (part 4070) is the classic — cheap and easy to start with. The 1x1 brick with a single side stud (11211) and the four-side stud brick (4733) are good for extending in multiple directions.
• SNOT bricks: the 1x2 brick with side studs (87087) is the workhorse of sideways building. The 1x2 brick with a hole (3700 and similar) pairs with a stud pin and suits load-bearing or removable structures.
• Sideways connectors: 1x1 clips, 2x2 turntable bricks and hinge parts let you bridge vertical surfaces and build corners and slopes.

Selection is simple. For walls, reach for 87087 and 11211 first. Where something needs to come apart repeatedly, use holed bricks with pins. When you want a perfectly flat finish, cap the outside with tiles (3034, 3069) and hide every stud.

Wall, lettering and slope applications

Take a 16x16 sideways wall as an example. The first course is a row of 1x2 bricks with side studs (87087), studs facing inward. The second course switches to 1x1 single-side-stud bricks (11211) in a staggered arrangement, so the seams lock into each other. The outer face is closed flat with 1x2 tiles, and headlight bricks form clean right angles at the corners. For signage, lay out side-stud bricks in reverse along the outline of each letter, then press tiles over the outside to lock them in place — the raised letters then stand proud of the facade, far more three-dimensional than a sticker. For slopes such as roofs and ship bows, combine hinge parts with holed bricks and step the profile in at a 1:2 or 1:3 gradient, adding a reinforced joint every two or three courses. All three cases share one rule: set the datum first, then fill the surface. Improvising as you go is the fastest way to end up half a stud out and pulling everything apart.

Advanced techniques and common pitfalls

For a more advanced approach, try the sandwich method: insert sideways connectors between two layers of brick so the same connection serves the walls on both the left and right, saving parts and improving rigidity. If you want studs visible on all four faces, use 1x1 four-side stud bricks (4733) as nodes — they extend in four directions at once. There are three common traps. First, it is easy to lose track of which way the studs face on stud-reversed bricks, so mark direction arrows on your plan first. Second, sideways structures take load in an unusual direction and are naturally weaker, so always add a support column at corners and double pins anywhere load-bearing. Third, tolerances differ between brands, so test-fit two parts before mixing a big batch. Keep the rule in mind: sideways building is 30% structure, 70% reinforcement.

Instructions and practice resources

Start with a 1x1 sideways stud wall, then move on to corners, curved surfaces and combined lettering. After every model, write the list of sideways parts you used onto the plan — over time this becomes your own parts library. BrickPlan hosts a large collection of tutorials and MOC instructions tagged with SNOT usage; browse the Building Techniques category to find them and work through them against the parts list after downloading. If you want to study sideways building systematically, visit https://brickplan.cn for tutorials and MOC instructions covering everything from first steps to advanced work. Build through them once and stud direction will never limit your imagination again.

FAQ

Q: What exactly is SNOT building? A: SNOT stands for Studs Not On Top. Sideways building uses specialist parts to point studs at the sides or even downward, giving walls horizontal texture, recessed panels and smooth surfaces. It is the first real dividing line between beginner and intermediate building.

Q: Which parts are used most for sideways building? A: Three groups: stud-reversed bricks (headlight brick 4070, single-side-stud 11211, four-side-stud 4733); SNOT bricks (87087 side studs, holed bricks with pins); and clips, turntable bricks and hinge parts.

Q: How do you make a sideways wall perfectly flat? A: Lay the first course as a row of 1x2 bricks with side studs, studs facing inward. Switch the second course to 1x1 single-side-stud bricks in a staggered pattern so the seams interlock. Close the outer face with 1x2 tiles and join the corners with headlight bricks for clean right angles.

Q: What are the most common pitfalls? A: Three: forgetting which way the studs face on stud-reversed bricks (mark arrows on your plan); sideways structures being naturally weak (add support columns at corners and double pins where load-bearing); and differing tolerances between brands (test-fit two parts before mixing).