MOC Weathering Guide: Dry Brush, Wash and Rust
Short version first: you do not need an airbrush or a compressor to weather a brick model. One flat brush, a jar of Tamiya enamel paint (around 25 yuan) and a bottle of thinner will do it. The four core steps are dry brushing to brighten edges, a wash to darken seams, scratches to reveal the base colour, and rust accents on worn spots. The whole process takes about 2 to 3 hours, and you should finish with a thin coat of matte clear coat. More weathering examples are on brickplan.cn.
1. Preparation and When to Weather
Weathering suits models that have a story: mecha, tanks, steampunk builds and street scenes. Skip it on mint-condition collectibles, because weathering is irreversible and hard to undo once it goes wrong. Tool list: an old flat brush, toothpicks, cotton swabs, Tamiya enamel paint in black, brown and rust, X-20 thinner, and matte clear coat. Total cost is around 50 yuan. Before you start, wipe the parts with water and dish soap to remove fingerprints and mould release agent, otherwise the paint will not grip.
2. Dry Brushing: Polishing the Edges
Dry brushing imitates the wear that comes from corners rubbing against things over and over. Load a little light grey paint onto the flat brush, drag it across a paper towel until it is nearly dry and no longer dripping, then sweep it lightly along brick edges and stud corners. The key is small amounts, many passes: reload after every 5 to 6 parts so the highlights stay natural. On a tank of roughly 800 pieces, edge dry brushing takes about 40 minutes.
3. Wash and Scratches: Filling Seams and Revealing Base Colour
For the wash, thin dark brown paint heavily, roughly 1 part paint to 8 parts thinner. Load the brush fully and paint it over the whole surface so the liquid runs into the seams between bricks. Wait about 5 minutes until it is semi-dry, then wipe the excess away sideways with a cotton swab. The dark colour left in the gaps reads as shadow and the model instantly gains depth. For scratches, dip a toothpick in dark grey paint and draw short lines of 2 to 3 mm on corners that would take impacts, simulating chipped paint showing the base colour underneath.
4. Rust and Protection: Accents and Sealing
Mix rust-coloured paint with a small amount of black. Dab it on with a dry sponge, pressing gently around tracks, exhausts and hinges to build up the grainy look of rust spots. When everything is done, leave the model to sit for about an hour so the paint dries fully. Finally, mist a thin coat of matte clear coat over the whole build to unify the sheen and stop paint rubbing off during handling. The full process takes about 2 to 3 hours and the result lasts for years.
FAQ
Q: Which paint is best for brick weathering?
A: Tamiya enamel paint with X-20 thinner is the mainstream choice. A jar costs around 25 yuan, flows well and wipes off easily, which makes it good for both washes and dry brushing. Water-based acrylics dry fast and are hard to wipe back, so beginners tend to leave brush marks. Lacquer paints bond strongly but smell, so do not use them indoors.
Q: Will weathering damage the bricks?
A: Not if you do it correctly. Thinner only touches the surface and does not attack ABS plastic, and once dry the parts can still be disassembled and rebuilt normally. Do not let thinner soak into parts for long periods, and never use strong solvents such as acetone, which really will melt the plastic. Beginners should practise on scrap bricks first.
Q: When is a MOC ready for weathering?
A: Mecha, tanks, war dioramas and steampunk builds benefit most and gain a lot of texture. For street scenes and architecture, a light wash is enough. Pure display collectibles and brand-new sets are best left alone. If you are unsure, test the effect on scrap bricks before committing.
Q: Can I erase weathering and start again?
A: As long as you have not sprayed clear coat, a cotton swab dipped in X-20 thinner will remove most of the effect so you can redo it. Once matte clear coat is on, it is essentially permanent. Get the look right before you seal it, and do not rush the clear coat.
Q: What is the difference between dry brushing and a wash?
A: Dry brushing uses very little paint on the brush and only touches raised edges, imitating worn highlights. A wash uses heavily thinned paint that flows into recessed seams, imitating shadow and grime. One handles the light, the other handles the dark, and you need both to get natural layers of weathering.